150 miles from Kupang
Ende is always worth a mention because of Iya, the spectacular live volcano on the southern headland. Anchorage on the west side is in 8-14 metres off the commercial port and ferry jetty.
All the usual fuel and provisions are available in the town sprawled in the low areas between the two volcanoes. In the northwest season alternative shelter can be found on the other side a half mile north east of the long fuel pier in 8-14 metres off the fringing reef at 8°50.941S, 121°40.305E with the airport runway bearing directly west.
Ende has that big country town feel about it with a relaxed laconic attitude among the locals. The airport is close to both anchorages and there are daily flights to Labuan Bajo and further west. From here you can visit the famous multi-coloured crater lakes of Kelimutu volcano on the Flores Plateau, although it is an arduous mountain drive. Well worth the stop for photographers to capture Lya volcano oozing lava and the amazing colours of the Kelimutu lakes.
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220 miles from Kupang
If travelling north of Flores, the only significant commercial port of any note is Maumere, about half way along this 300-mile east-west running island. Maumere is the international check-in port for a lot of international yachts arriving the northern route around the top of East Timor. It’s also the fast-growing live-aboard scuba diving tourist hub for this region.
Anchor in 15-40 metres to the southeast of the commercial piers. This is a wide-open port with no real protection from the northeast. Anchoring can be difficult especially for smaller yachts with less chain and smaller machinery, because the average depth in front of the town is extremely deep. It ranges between 20-40 metres, even right in close.
However, from our anchorage yachts drawing 2.8 metres or less can motor in very close to find the 4-metre ‘shelf’ at 8°37.100S,122°13.175E . It’s only 20 metres off the tiny beach wedged between the two concrete breakwater walls. Best to run a stern anchor onto the 15-22 metre bank behind as you motor up onto the shelf so you won’t get swung into the concrete later if the wind changes. There’s only room for one boat in here but we reckon it’s the best spot in the bay.
The town faces northeast in Maumere Bay and has all the usual tourist amenities. The harbour is 30 minutes from the airport and public transport is easy to find. Local restaurants and hotels provide Indonesian fare at a reasonable price and the karaoke nightlife scene revolves around pretty Javanese working girls. There are half dozen dive shops that arrange tours to the islands north of here, where sightings of pelagic species are almost guaranteed.
