Incorporating the Andaman Sea, Gulf of Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia… and more

Southeast Asia Pilot by Bill O’Leary & Andy Dowden

Thailand Samui & The Western Gulf

Gulf pf Thailand

North of the Malaysian border, the first main thai ports are Narathiwat and Pattani, both commercial fishing harbours. Not usually on the itinerary of cruising yachts, they can be entered through well-buoyed channels.

Most yachts cruising into the Gulf from the south go straight for Koh Samui, and this is permissible if no landfall is made.

The well heads and rigs of the gas fields in Thai waters are well offshore and unlikely to be encountered unless heading on a more northerly course direct for Pattaya, but anyway are a blaze of light at night.

The weather patterns are similar to the andaman Sea coast of thailand, except that the southwest monsoon is dryer in the lee of the peninsula. There is only one high tide per day in the Gulf of Thailand.

The 100 miles of coastline from the border to Songkhla is well charted in thai charts 206 and 230, so is not covered in detail here.

A stopover in Songkhla is a good opportunity to explore southern thailand; the west coast is only 90 kilometres by road. Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and surrounding islands are the first point of real interest for cruising yachts. Busy Samui is the main centre of the group.

To the north are Chumpon, Prachuab Khirikhan and Petchaburi, all large fishing ports serving the huge

Thai fleet trawling the Gulf. In the river mouth, inside the fishing port at Pranburi, 30 miles north of Prachuab, is a small marina 12°24.467N, 99°58.721E. it's in poor repair and mostly used by fishing boats.

At the head of the Gulf are the low marshy areas just south of Bangkok and the mouth of the Chao Phraya River, gateway to thailand's Central Plain and much of the country's rich history.

Gulf pf Thailand

Songkla

SONGKHLA. 7°13.089N, 100°35.425E

The port of Songkhla lies at the mouth of an inland waterway and is the best first point of entry into thai waters. A large commercial port, at the mouth of the river services the supply vessels for the offshore rigs to the east.

A vibrant town, it is the administrative centre for the province of Songkhla, although Hadyai, just 20 kilometres inland, is a much larger city as it straddles the main peninsular railway between Bangkok and Singapore.

hadyai is a border town with direct flights to Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala lumpur and Phuket. Many visitors from Malaysia flock to Hadyai for the cheap shopping and nightlife.

North of Songkhla, the coast up to Nakhon Sri Thammarat is a long uninteresting stretch of beach backed by prawn farms. There is nothing of note for cruising vessels and most continue up to the Samui islands after leaving Songkhla.

Koh Samui, Koh Phangan
& Ang Thong Archipelago

This section covers the area bounded by Koh Tao, the Ang Thong National Park group, Koh Phangan, Koh Samui to the east, and Chumpon to the west.

Generally speaking, the islands lie in a shallow part of the Gulf of thailand, off the east coast of the southern peninsula where the waters are rather turbid, with poor visibility for snorkelling.

Koh Tao and the islands adjacent to Chumpon are a notable exception, with Koh Tao in particular offering clear waters and the best diving in the western Gulf.

Koh Samui and, more recently, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao have become major tourist destinations, and are accessible by a variety of sea craft from the mainland. Koh Samui also has a private airport, operated by Bangkok airways, with connections to Bangkok, Singapore, Phuket and Pattaya and other regional destinations. thai airways, previously restricted to Surat Thani airport, now also flies into Samui.

Monsoon wind patterns are the same as for the rest of the country. however, from May until October, during the southwest monsoon, the seas are calmer than the Andaman due to the protection of the Malay Peninsula, and there is less rainfall. In fact, Koh Samui enjoys some of its finest days during the months of July to September.

Conversely, during Phuket's fine but windy weather from November to February, Samui is lashed by strong northeast monsoon storms, and the seas can be rough. The South China Sea is influenced by the Pacific ocean, and most of the year there will be only one high tide per day, as compared to the Andaman Sea, which has two tides daily.

Technical support for cruising and charter vessels is still very limited. However some charter acivity operates from Ao Bo Phut and there is jetty and speed boat terminal at Bangrak. Good workshops and hardware stores are found in the towns of Nathon (on Samui), Surat Thani, Chumpon and Nakorn Sri Thammarat (on the mainland). Government has recently announced plans to build a marina in Ao Bo Phut,and one in the south west of the island but at the time of writing no completion date has been set.

Surat Thani & Donsak Pier

The city of Surat thani is the capital of the province of the same name and means 'City of the Good'. The main town is nestled close to the coast facing northeast at the mouth of the Ta Pi River. The city fringes the huge bay of Ao Ban Don which is shallow, lacklustre and uninviting.

Ferries to Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and the Ang Thong National Park Islands depart from the town jetty in the river and eastern provincial centre of Don Sak, 22 kilometres by road northeast of the city.

There are immigration offices in town and on Koh Samui for yachts checking into Thailand. Donsak is the main car and passenger departure point and is on highway 4041. There are two ferry operators' Songserm and Raja — each with its own jetty. Pleasure and private yachts need to make advance arrangements before using the jetty. Anchorage can be found virtually anywhere along the coast in 5-10 metres; a very small town adjoins the ferry terminals, where supplies can be found.

Further south on the mainland is the town of Kanom. A broad river giving access to shipyards and commercial fishing wharves runs north south into the town. Two miles south of this river, past the gypsum piers, is a four-mile-long east-facing pristine beach with numerous bungalows and midrange hotel resorts. Anchorage can be found anywhere off this beach in the southwest season.

Chumporn Bay

Chumporn Paknam, a major east coast fishing port, is not a tourist destination, although some of the offshore islands offer good snorkelling and diving. There are several fishing boat repair yards where haul-outs can be arranged for a reasonable price.

Good hardware shops are available and, on the main highway going towards Bangkok, you can find the only company in the country that has a dynamic balancer for propellers.

Most of the islands have day anchorages on the lee side in 10-15 metres in either season. The caves and cavities on these small islands are home to thousands of the swallows which make those highly prized nests that are collected for birds' nest soup.

Chumporn To The Head Of The Gulf

North of Chumporn there are a few small fishing ports, but nothing of much interest to cruising yachts.

The famous resort town of Hua Hin, where the main railway between Bangkok and Singapore runs parallel to the coast, has a royal palace and some excellent resorts.

It is a favourite weekend destination from Bangkok. however there are no real anchoring possibilities other than off the open beach in the right conditions.

While every effort has been made to ensure that the information contained in this book is accurate, the charts of anchorages are based on personal experience and satellite imagery and are intended as a guide only. They should not be used for navigation. Please refer to Official Hydrographic Charts of the respective countries.

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